The Recipe: Truffle Honey Baked Brie Pumpkin

Serves 2 as dinner, or 4 as an appetizer · 20 minutes hands-on, about 1 hour total

Why this pairing: Nothing makes a weeknight better than puff pastry, melted brie, truffle honey, and Champagne. The pumpkin shape is perfect for Halloween, Thanksgiving, or any day of the year. The Champagne’s fruity freshness balances the savory melted cheese, while its light toast and pastry notes complement the earthy truffle and puff pastry.

You’ll need:

• 1 sheet frozen puff pastry (half a 17.3-ounce package), thawed

• 1 (8-ounce) wheel brie

• 2 tablespoons black truffle honey

• 1 large egg

• 1 tablespoon water

• 1 sprig fresh rosemary

• Kitchen twine, cut into 4 pieces

Do this:

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

2. Unfold or unroll the pastry on a lightly floured board. Stand the brie on its side and slice it in half horizontally into two thinner rounds.

3. Spread the truffle honey over the cut side of the bottom half, then set the top half back on.

4. Set the brie in the center of the pastry. Fold each corner in over the cheese, then fold in the sides so the pastry wraps it into a ball, and pinch the seams to seal.

5. Lay 2 pieces of twine in a cross on the board and set the pastry ball in the center, seam side up. Tie the east-to-west string snugly over the top, then the north-to-south string, dividing the ball into 4 sections.

6. Lay the other 2 pieces of twine in a cross, set the ball on top turned 45 degrees, and tie them the same way to make 8 sections, like the ribs of a pumpkin.

7. Flip the ball seam side down onto the sheet pan. Beat the egg with the water and brush it all over the pastry.

8. Watch the pastry in the oven, and pull it out when it’s golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes (mine was ready at about 28 minutes). Let it rest for 10 minutes so the cheese sets a little before you cut in.

9. Snip and pull out the twine, then press the rosemary sprig into the top as the pumpkin stem.

10. Serve with a sliced baguette, your favorite crackers, or sliced green apples if you want something to cut through the fat.

11. Want more? Toss a few handfuls of arugula with a squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil, and serve it alongside.

12. Plate it, pour the wine!

Printable recipe card below.

Truffle Honey Baked Brie Pumpkin Recipe

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The Pour

Heidsieck & Co Monopole, Champagne Blue Top Brut, NV

A round, fruit-forward nonvintage brut, with ripe apple, pear, and citrus over a little toast. The bubbles and acidity cut through the butter in the pastry and the melted brie, and the fruit picks up the honey. Serve it well chilled. About $45 to $55. Any Crémant de Bourgogne or Crémant d’Alsace, around $20 to $25, will work in its place.

The One Thing to Know

This makes a light dinner for two, but the baked brie also stands on its own as a great appetizer.

Tuesday, but nicer.

The Recipe: Creamy Bacon Corn Tortellini

Serves 2 · 20 minutes hands-on, about 25 minutes total

Why this pairing: A crisp Chardonnay balances the richness of the cream and the cheese, and its subtle fruit complements the sweet corn. And it’s bright enough that the smoky bacon still comes through.

You’ll need:

• 9 ounces refrigerated cheese tortellini

• 7 slices smoked thick-cut bacon, chopped

• 3 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 ear fresh corn, kernels cut from the cob

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• ½ teaspoon Italian seasoning

• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for the pasta water

• ¾ cup heavy cream

• ¼ cup grated Parmesan

• ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

• ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for finishing

• Chopped fresh chives, for serving (optional)

For a gluten-free option use Taste Republic Gluten-Free 4-Cheese Tortellini.

Do this:

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

2. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the garlic, salt, Italian seasoning, and ¼ teaspoon black pepper and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

4. Stir in the tomato paste, then add the corn and cook for 2 minutes.

5. Pour in the cream and stir in the Parmesan. Simmer over low heat until the sauce thickens slightly, about 3 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, cook the tortellini in the boiling water according to the package directions. Scoop out ¼ cup of the pasta water, then drain.

7. Toss the tortellini with the sauce, adding a splash of the pasta water if it needs loosening. Finish with the red pepper flakes, more black pepper, and the chives.

8. Plate it, pour the wine!

Printable recipe card below.

Creamy Bacon Corn Tortellini Recipe

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The Pour

Albert Bichot, Pouilly-Fuissé, 2020 (or the current vintage)

Pouilly-Fuissé is Chardonnay from the Mâconnais, the southern end of Burgundy, grown on steep limestone and clay slopes. Bichot ages it mostly in stainless steel, with about a third in oak, so it stays fresh and balanced: apple and pear up front, a subtle hint of vanilla, and enough body for cream sauces, chicken, and seafood. Serve it lightly chilled, 52 to 55°F. About $50. A Mâcon-Villages, around $15 to $20, will work in its place.

The One Thing to Know

Burgundy labels name the place, not the grape. White Burgundy is Chardonnay, and red Burgundy is Pinot Noir. Remember one region/two grapes, and that French wine list gets a lot less intimidating.

Tuesday, but nicer.

The Occasion

Crispy fried chicken with creamy mashed potatoes, all covered in gravy. This family favorite is comfort food at its finest. I make this in a countertop deep fryer, the best kitchen tool I’ve bought in years; it gets used every week. Both recipes are adapted from America’s Test Kitchen. It will bring the kids home regardless of the time of year. Add fresh corn to complete the meal!

The Wines

Primary pour: Domaine Arnaud Lambert, Crémant de Loire Brut, NV

A traditional-method sparkling wine from Arnaud Lambert, who farms organically in Brézé and Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg in Saumur, in the middle of the Loire Valley. It’s mostly Chenin Blanc with some Chardonnay, dry and crisp, with apple and pear notes that work especially well with the peppery cream gravy. Serve it chilled. About $30.

For something easier to find from the same region, any Crémant de Loire or sparkling Saumur, around $15 to $25, will work in its place. A dry Champagne (from about $40) or a Spanish Cava (around $15) works too.

The Menu

Serves 4

Main: Chicken Fried Chicken with Gravy

50 minutes hands-on, about 2¼ hours total (includes 1 hour brining)

You’ll need:

The chicken

• 4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

• 2 cups buttermilk

• 2 tablespoons black pepper, divided

• 6 teaspoons table salt, divided

• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, divided

• 1½ cups all-purpose flour

• 1¼ cups cornstarch

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• Canola or vegetable oil, for frying

The gravy

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 4 cups milk, plus more as needed

• 1½ teaspoons table salt, or more to taste

• 2 teaspoons black pepper

Do this:

1. Place 1 chicken breast between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound it to an even ¼-inch thickness with a meat pounder, heavy rolling pin, or heavy skillet. Repeat with the remaining breasts.

2. Whisk the buttermilk, 1 tablespoon pepper, 4 teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon cayenne together in a large bowl. Submerge the chicken in the brine, cover, and refrigerate for 1 to 24 hours.

3. Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Whisk the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, remaining 2 teaspoons salt, remaining 1 tablespoon pepper, and remaining ½ teaspoon cayenne together in a large bowl.

4. Remove 1 piece of chicken at a time from the brine and press it firmly into the flour mixture, turning to coat. Transfer it to the prepared rack and repeat with the remaining chicken. Reserve the remaining flour mixture. Refrigerate the chicken, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

5. Heat the oil in a deep fryer to 375°F. If you don’t have a fryer, heat 1 inch of oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat to 375°F.

6. Set paper grocery bags on a second rimmed baking sheet and top with a second wire rack.

7. Return the chicken to the flour mixture and turn to coat, again pressing firmly. Carefully place as many pieces in the hot oil as will fit without crowding.

8. Fry until deep golden brown and the chicken registers 160°F, 5 to 6 minutes in a deep fryer. In a Dutch oven, cook 4 to 6 minutes per side.

9. Transfer the chicken to the paper-lined rack. Let the oil return to 375°F and repeat with the remaining chicken. Let the chicken rest for about 5 minutes.

10. While the chicken fries, make the gravy. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat and whisk in the flour until smooth. Slowly add the milk, whisking constantly, until smooth.

11. Bring to a simmer, whisking often, and cook until the gravy has thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Adjust the consistency with more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time. Off the heat, whisk in the salt and pepper for the gravy.

12. Serve the gravy over the chicken and mashed potatoes. The gravy makes enough for both; if you’re only making the chicken, halve the gravy ingredients.

Printable recipe card below.

Chicken Fried Chicken With Gravy Recipe

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Side: Creamy Mashed Potatoes

15 minutes hands-on, about 40 minutes total

You’ll need:

• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick

• 8 to 10 tablespoons half-and-half

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

• 1 teaspoon table salt, plus more to taste

• Black pepper, to taste

Do this:

1. Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat.

2. Add the potatoes, with more water if needed to cover them. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to keep a very gentle simmer. Cover and cook until a paring knife slips easily into the potatoes, 10 to 12 minutes.

3. Drain the potatoes and return them to the saucepan. Mash to your preferred consistency, or press them through a ricer.

4. Stir in 8 tablespoons of the half-and-half, the butter, and the salt until combined. Adjust the consistency with the remaining half-and-half, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Printable recipe card below.

Creamy Mashed Potatoes Recipe

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The Pairing

Crémant de Loire is a great match for fried chicken and gravy. Its bubbles and bright acidity refresh your palate between bites of the crispy coating and the rich gravy.

The Timeline

Pound and brine the chicken at least two hours before you want to eat. About an hour before you want to eat, dredge the chicken and let it chill while the oil heats. Start the potatoes about 40 minutes before you eat. Fry the chicken in batches and make the gravy while the last batch cooks. Mash the potatoes, open the Crémant, and sit down while everything is hot.

The One Thing to Know

Bubbles are the best pairing for anything fried, and they aren’t just for special occasions; we drink Champagne at least once a week. Champagne (or Crémant) and fried chicken is a classic for a reason!

Stay for one more glass.

The Recipe: Italian Sub Pasta Salad

Serves 6 to 8 · 30 minutes hands-on, about 45 minutes total

Why this pairing: This Italian sub (or grinder) pasta salad has strong Italian flavors that need a wine that can stand up to them, and rosé seemed a natural fit. I picked one from Corsica. While technically French, Corsica is historically and culturally more Italian. This is a great rosé: traditionally Italian grapes made into a dry French-style rosé.

You’ll need:

Dressing

• 1 cup mayonnaise

• ¼ cup red wine vinegar, divided

• 2 tablespoons pepperoncini brine

• 2 cloves garlic, grated

• 1 teaspoon dried oregano

• ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

• Freshly cracked black pepper

Pasta salad

• 1 pound strozzapreti or other short pasta

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

• 6 ounces sliced Black Forest ham

• 6 ounces sliced smoked turkey

• 6 ounces sliced salami

• 6 ounces sliced provolone

• 8 ounces mozzarella pearls, drained

• ½ red onion, very thinly sliced

• ½ cup pepperoncini, chopped

• ¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for serving

• 8 ounces shredded iceberg lettuce

Do this:

1. Soak the sliced red onion in ice water while you make the rest of the salad, at least 10 minutes, to take out the bite.

2. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, tender with a slight bite in the center.

3. Drain the pasta and let it cool, then toss it with the olive oil in a large bowl.

4. Stack the ham, turkey, salami, and provolone slices and cut them into bite-size pieces. Packaged sandwich-thickness slices work fine.

5. Make the dressing: whisk together the mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, the pepperoncini brine, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper. Taste and adjust.

6. Add the meats, provolone, mozzarella, pepperoncini, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and dressing to the pasta. Drain the onion, pat it dry, add it last, and stir to combine.

7. Cover and refrigerate. You can eat it right away, but it gets better as it rests, up to 24 hours.

8. Right before serving, stir in the lettuce and the remaining 2 tablespoons of vinegar, then top with more Parmigiano-Reggiano and black pepper. Making it ahead for lunches? Keep the lettuce and vinegar on the side and add them to each portion as you serve it.

9. Plate it, pour the wine!

Printable recipe card below.

Italian Sub Pasta Salad Recipe

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The Pour

Clos Canereccia, Corse Rosé, 2021 (or the current vintage)

Clos Canereccia is a small organic estate near Aléria, on Corsica’s east coast, where Christian Estève has replanted his family’s vineyards with the island’s native grapes. This rosé leans on Niellucciu, so expect wild strawberry, red currant, and dried herbs, with a dry, slightly salty finish that loves cured meat, olive oil, and vinegar. Serve it straight from the fridge. About $25, but hard to find in the US. Any dry Corsican rosé, around $12 to $15, will work in its place, or a dry rosé from Provence, around $15 to $20.

The One Thing to Know

The first time I made this, I didn’t let it rest and served it right away. It was good, but letting it rest noticeably improves the flavor. Make it the day before and let it sit, then add the lettuce and the second half of the vinegar right before serving. Bring this to your next picnic or barbecue and be ready for rave reviews!

Tuesday, but nicer.

The Recipe: Miso Black Cod

Serves 2 · 15 minutes hands-on, plus 12 to 24 hours marinating

Plan ahead: 5 minutes the night before, about 20 minutes the night you eat.

Why this pairing: Umami and minerality. This take on Nobu’s miso black cod is as good today as it was nearly 40 years ago, and it’s loaded with savory depth. Chablis is grown in Kimmeridgian soil, packed with fossilized oyster shells from an ancient seabed, and the wine is known for a saline, oyster-shell minerality that amplifies miso’s fermented umami. Briny wine, savory glaze, buttery fish: every part of the plate has a partner in the glass.

You’ll need:

• ½ cup white miso

• ⅓ cup sugar

• 3 tablespoons mirin

• 2 tablespoons sake (look for individual sake servings if you don’t drink sake)

• 1½ tablespoons soy sauce

• 1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil

• 2 skin-on black cod (sablefish) fillets, 6 to 8 ounces each

• Cooking spray

• 1 head broccoli, cut into florets

• 1 (8.8-ounce) pouch microwavable short-grain or jasmine rice

• Furikake, for sprinkling

Do this:

1. The night before, whisk the miso, sugar, mirin, sake, soy sauce, and sesame oil in a bowl until the sugar dissolves. Pat the cod dry with paper towels, put it in a 1-gallon zip-top bag, and pour in the marinade. Press out the air, seal the bag, and turn it to coat the fish. Refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours, turning the bag once or twice.

2. When you’re ready to cook, set an oven rack 6 to 8 inches below the broiler and heat the broiler on high. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, set a wire rack on top, and spray the rack lightly with cooking spray. Wipe the excess marinade off the cod, since the extra sugar burns before the fish cooks through, and place the fillets on the rack skin side down.

3. Broil the cod for 8 to 12 minutes, rotating the sheet halfway through, until the glaze is deeply browned in spots and the thickest part reads 125°F. If the top darkens before the fish is done, move the sheet down a rack. While the cod broils, steam the broccoli until bright green and just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Heat the rice according to the package directions and sprinkle it with furikake.

4. Plate it, pour the wine!

Printable recipe card below.

Miso Black Cod Recipe

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The Pour

Lamblin & Fils, Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume, 2022 (or the current vintage)

It’s richer than most Chablis, with ripe orchard fruit and some breadth from warm, south-facing slopes. 2022 was a warm, sunny vintage, which added body. That’s what you want against buttery, fatty fish and a sweet-salty glaze, and it still has enough minerality and acidity to cut through the richness. Serve it cold but not ice-cold, about 15 minutes out of the fridge, so the fruit comes through. About $50. Any basic Chablis, around $20 to $25, will work in its place.

The One Thing to Know

Chablis is Chardonnay for people who don’t like California Chardonnay. In fact, I didn’t think I liked white wine until I tried Chablis. I thought all white wine tasted like the oaky, buttery California Chardonnays I’d had. The biggest difference is the oak: most Chablis is made in stainless steel tanks or old, neutral barrels instead of new oak, so its crisp acidity and minerality shine through.

Tuesday, but nicer.

Ratatouille toasts, coq au vin with garlic mashed potatoes, and a French apple tart, paired with eight wines that will have your guests asking for another glass and all the recipes. This is the first Wine Night post and the first in a series exploring the unsung wines of France, Italy, and Spain. All three are known for great wine; now we get to know some of their lesser-known treasures.

Serves 8. Plan on about 4 hours of cooking the night before (time permitting) and about 3 hours of hands-on work on the day, spread across the afternoon and evening.

Jump to: Wines · Menu & Recipes · Hosting · Timeline · Shopping List

The Wines

In tasting order.

1. Château Le Grand Verdus Les Petites Bulles Blanc de Noirs

A pét-nat from an Entre-Deux-Mers estate. It’s naturally sparkling and made white from black grapes, Cabernet Franc and Merlot grown in cool sites, with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc. About $20 to $25.
Pairs with: Ratatouille Toasts

2. Château des Antonins 2023 Bordeaux Blanc AOC

The estate sits in Pondaurat on the left bank of the Garonne, near Graves. Only about 3 of its 27 hectares are white grapes, so the blanc is a small part of production. It is a blend of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. About $15.
Pairs with: Ratatouille Toasts

3. Sol & Rive Grenache Colombard 2025 Coteaux du Pont du Gard IGP

Grenache Blanc blended with Colombard gives a crisp, fruity, easy-drinking white. The IGP is one of Languedoc’s most northerly wine areas, at the crossroads of Languedoc, the Rhône, and Provence, and its fine, elegant, and fruity whites are meant to be drunk young. About $15 to $20.
Pairs with: Ratatouille Toasts

4. Clos du Joncuas Rosé 2025 Gigondas AOP

Gigondas is almost entirely red, so this is a rare one. This rosé is heady, with cooked-fruit and toasted-almond aromas, and it’s made in very small quantities. A blend of Grenache with Cinsault and Mourvèdre, a deep peach color. This is a food rosé, not a pool rosé. About $25 to $30.
Pairs with: Coq au Vin

5. Domaine de l’Idylle Mondeuse Le Tithonien 2025 Vin de Savoie AOC

Mondeuse is a signature red grape of Savoie, and this version offers bright berry scents and savory red fruit. Tastes of black cherry, raspberry, and black pepper. About $20 to $25.
Pairs with: Coq au Vin

6. Château de la Vieille Chapelle Tradition 2020 Bordeaux AOC

On the right bank of the Dordogne, the property was certified organic in 2013, and received Demeter biodynamic certification in 2017. A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with plum and blackcurrant fruit flavors, lively acidity, and moderate tannins. About $15 to $20.
Pairs with: Coq au Vin

7. Serge & Marie Domaine Cabirau 2019 Maury Sec AOP

The Maury Sec appellation is highlighted by its dry wines. The cuvée is Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan from schist soils. It shows old-vine Grenache character, with black fruit, fine-grained tannins, and a hint of orange zest on the finish. About $15 to $20.
Pairs with: Coq au Vin

8. Château de Myrat Sauternes AOC 2016

Myrat has a great comeback story. In 1976, Max de Pontac pulled up the vineyard because he couldn’t sell his Sauternes, and in 1988 his sons, Jacques and Xavier, replanted it. The blend is Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle, with flavors of candied peach, citrus zest, and a hint of ginger. About $25 for a half bottle, the size that’s easiest to find in the US, and plenty for eight small pours.
Pairs with: French Apple Tart

Why this lineup: This is an eclectic group. They are all unique in their own way, some hard to find, some not well known, some fairly new to the scene, but all of them are fantastic food wines. They’re poured light to heavy, sparkling to sweet, so each wine sets up the next. Italy and Spain come next in the Unsung series. After that, Wine Nights will go back to more traditional pairings: a region’s classic dishes with its best-known wines.

Alternatives: These wines are just suggestions; don’t worry if you can’t find these specific wines. Several of the bottles above are hard to find in the US, which is part of the point of the series. This menu could easily work with a Crémant de Loire (around $15 to $25) and a Sancerre (around $25 to $35) or other Sauvignon Blanc (from about $12) to start. A full-bodied rosé such as Tavel (around $15 to $20) and a couple of red Burgundies (Bourgogne Rouge, around $25 to $35) with the main. And any Sauternes or Barsac with the dessert (a half bottle from about $15 to $20).

The Menu

The appetizer, main, and dessert link to their own recipe posts. The sides are written out here.

Appetizer: Ratatouille Toasts

• Pairs with: the Château Le Grand Verdus pét-nat, the Château des Antonins Bordeaux Blanc, and the Sol & Rive Grenache Colombard

• Make ahead: The ratatouille can be made the night before (time permitting) and the toasts up to 2 days ahead.

• Recipe: Ratatouille Toasts

A classic French dish turned into an appetizer is a fun and easy way to kick off the evening. The goat cheese adds another layer of flavor and really stands out with the Sauvignon Blanc in the Bordeaux Blanc.

Main: Coq au Vin

• Pairs with: the Clos du Joncuas Gigondas rosé, the Domaine de l’Idylle Mondeuse, the Château de la Vieille Chapelle Bordeaux, and the Domaine Cabirau Maury Sec

• Make ahead: Steps 1 through 7 can be done the night before (time permitting).

• Serve with: the two sides below and a crusty French loaf on the table to soak up the sauce

• Recipe: Coq au Vin

Another classic French dish that pairs well with the variety of wines being served. The chicken base is lighter than beef, so it is more friendly to the lighter wines, while the deep flavors of the braising hold up to the more powerful reds. The rosé leads off the main course and bridges the whites and the reds.

Side: Garlic Mashed Potatoes

• Make ahead: The potatoes can be peeled and chopped earlier in the day and stored submerged in cold water in the fridge to keep them from turning brown. I use the same pot I plan to cook them in, dump them in a colander and rinse/dry them while I start step 3. The garlic can also be poached in advance; put the half-and-half back in the fridge with the garlic until you're ready to use it.

If the coq au vin is the star of the show, this is the best supporting actor. The subtle garlic flavor plays nicely with the chicken and the sauce acts like gravy on the potatoes, giving another means of getting the sauce into your mouth.

Serves 8 · 40 minutes hands-on, about 1½ hours total

You’ll need:

• 4 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, quartered, and cut into ½-inch pieces

• 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

• 16 cloves garlic, peeled

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 2 cups half-and-half, divided

• ½ cup water

• Salt and pepper

Do this:

1. Simmer the garlic cloves in the half-and-half over low heat for 15 to 20 minutes. Reserve both.

2. Rinse the potatoes in a colander under cold running water until the water runs clear. Let them drain.

3. Melt 4 tablespoons of butter in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Smash the garlic, add it to the pot with the sugar, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the rinsed potatoes, 1¼ cups of the reserved half-and-half, the water, and 1 teaspoon of salt, and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, which can take 15 to 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered and stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 25 to 30 minutes more.

4. Remove the pot from the heat, add the remaining butter, and mash to your desired consistency. Fold in another ¼ cup of the reserved half-and-half (more or less to taste) until the liquid is absorbed and the potatoes are creamy.

5. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.

Notes: Poaching the garlic in the half-and-half softens the sharpness and provides better balance with the coq au vin.

Side: Green Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette

• Make ahead: The vinaigrette can be made a day or two ahead. If it separates, whisk it again before dressing the salad.

The coq au vin and mashed potatoes are both rich dishes. This light, crisp salad, with a tangy bite from the shallot and Dijon, balances the plate.

Serves 8 · 10 minutes hands-on

You’ll need:

Vinaigrette

• 3 tablespoons champagne vinegar

• 2 small shallots, finely minced

• 1 teaspoon mayonnaise

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• ¼ teaspoon table salt

• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salad

• 12 ounces spring mix

Do this:

1. Whisk together the vinegar, shallots, mayonnaise, mustard, and salt.

2. Slowly drizzle the oil in, whisking constantly.

3. Dress the greens just before serving.

Both sides are on one printable recipe card below.

Garlic Mashed Potatoes And Green Salad Recipes

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Dessert: French Apple Tart

• Pairs with: Château de Myrat Sauternes

• Make ahead: The tart can be made earlier in the day than the timeline shows.

• Equipment: a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom

• Recipe: French Apple Tart

Sauternes and apple are a classic match. The wine’s candied-peach and citrus notes echo the apricot glaze, and its acidity keeps the sweetness from feeling heavy.

The One Thing to Know

Don’t get hung up on the timing; stick with the progression. If you’re ready to eat before the whites are finished, sit down. They hold up to the main course.

Hosting Notes

• Divide and conquer: If this looks daunting, don’t be discouraged. This can easily be done as a potluck with assignments passed out to your friends. You do the coq au vin and salad, someone brings the toasts, someone else makes the dessert, and someone makes the potatoes. The toasts travel best with the ratatouille packed separately and assembled on arrival, and the potatoes can come in a slow cooker or a covered pot to stay warm. Just make sure the appetizer and the first bottle go to your most punctual friends. You can also hand out the wine list and have everyone bring a bottle.

• Glassware: One glass per guest is fine. If you have enough, though, giving everyone two glasses lets them taste wines side by side. The way the progression is developed, there is no need to rinse the glass(es) between wines with the exception of the Sauternes at the end.

• Starting and sitting: I like to have the appetizers and paired wines in the kitchen before sitting down for the main event. This is less formal, more conducive to conversation, and accommodates latecomers more easily. If you have the glassware, have one wine glass per person on the kitchen counter and set the table with the second wine glass.

• The lineup: Stage the bottles on a counter in tasting order so anyone helping pours the right one next.

• Pour sizes: Pour about 3 ounces of each wine and 1½ ounces of the Sauternes. Eight bottles for eight people is a bottle each over the night, so small pours let everyone taste every bottle and still enjoy dessert. There will also be a little left in each bottle if anyone wants another splash.

• The first bottle: Starting with something sparkling is always fun and gets the evening off on the right foot. I find it also goes the fastest, and people often want more. Get a second bottle of whatever you start the night with. You might not need it, but you’ll be happy to have it if you do!

• Chilling: Put the pét-nat, the two whites, the rosé, and the Sauternes in the fridge in the morning. Pull the rosé about 15 minutes before pouring so it isn’t ice-cold. Give the reds 15 to 20 minutes in the fridge before pouring so they’re cool, not warm. Keep the Sauternes on ice once it comes out.

• Opening the reds: Open them when guests arrive so they have some air before the main course.

Do Ahead

Tasks to knock out in the days before, as time permits. None of these have to happen on a fixed day.

• Make the toasts (up to 2 days ahead; store them airtight)

• Make the vinaigrette

• Simmer the half-and-half with garlic

• Set the table

The night before (time permitting)

• Make the ratatouille

• Make the coq au vin through step 7, then cool it and refrigerate it in the pot. Refrigerate the chopped porcini and the cooked pancetta separately for the next day

• Move the frozen pearl onions to the fridge to thaw

No time the night before or love spending the day in the kitchen? Both dishes can be made the day of. The all-in-one-day timeline is in the printable PDF at the end of the Timeline.

The Timeline

Built backward from food on the table at 7:30 PM, with the ratatouille and coq au vin made the night before. Shift every time by the same amount if your dinner is earlier/later or to fit your schedule.

• 1:30 PM Catch up on anything not done ahead: toast the bread before the tart takes the oven, make the vinaigrette, and poach the garlic in the half-and-half, then refrigerate it. Put the frozen pearl onions in a strainer over a bowl in the fridge to thaw and drain. If the pét-nat, whites, rosé, and Sauternes aren’t chilling yet, put them in now

• 2:30 PM Make and par-bake the tart crust

• 3:00 PM Make the tart filling

• 3:30 PM Assemble and bake the tart

• 4:15 PM Finish the tart

• 4:45 PM Peel and cut the potatoes, and cover them with cold water in the fridge

• 5:15 PM Take the ratatouille out of the fridge

• 5:45 PM Lift the fat off the coq au vin. Pulse the ratatouille and stir in the herbs and vinegar

• 6:00 PM Cook the pearl onions and mushrooms (steps 8 and 9)

• 6:05 PM Start the potatoes (steps 2 and 3). The liquid takes 15 to 20 minutes to come to a boil, so give them about an hour

• 6:15 PM Reheat the coq au vin gently, covered, over medium-low until hot through, about 45 minutes. Assemble the toasts

• 6:30 PM Guests arrive. Pour the pét-nat and pass the toasts

• 7:00 PM Move the chicken to a platter, strain and skim the sauce, and make the butter-flour paste (steps 10 and 11)

• 7:15 PM Mash the potatoes. Thicken the sauce and warm everything through (step 12)

• 7:25 PM Dress the salad

• 7:30 PM Plate the coq au vin (step 13). Food on the table

• About 8:45 PM Put the mixer bowl and whisk in the freezer

• About 9:00 PM Make the whipped cream

• 9:15 PM Serve dessert

Cooking everything on the day? Use the all-in-one-day timeline in the printable PDF below.

Unsung Wines Of France All In One Day

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Shopping List

Grocery

Grouped by store section.

Produce

• 3 large onions

• 3 large heads of garlic (about 30 cloves)

• ¾ pound eggplant

• 1 pound plum tomatoes

• 1 medium zucchini

• 1 red bell pepper

• 1 yellow bell pepper

• 1 bunch fresh basil

• 1 large bunch Italian parsley

• 4 pounds russet potatoes

• 2 large carrots

• 4 medium shallots and 2 small shallots

• 10 Golden Delicious apples (about 5 pounds)

• 1 pound cremini mushrooms

• 12 ounces spring mix

Dairy & Eggs

• 1 (8-ounce) log goat cheese

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 2 cups half-and-half

• 41 tablespoons unsalted butter (5 sticks plus 1 tablespoon)

Meat & Seafood

• 6 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

• 12 ounces pancetta

Frozen

• 1 (14-ounce) bag frozen pearl onions

Pantry & Jarred

• 4 cups beef broth

• ½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms

• 1 teaspoon mayonnaise

• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• ½ cup apricot preserves

Bakery

• 1 baguette, bought the day you make the toasts

• A good loaf of crusty French bread, bought the day of, for the table

Wine & Spirits

• Bottles for the table: the eight wines listed above or suggested alternatives, plus a second bottle of the opener

• 2 bottles Bourgogne Rouge for cooking

• ½ cup cognac

Pantry Check

Common staples you may already have. Check before you shop. Amounts are what this menu uses, rounded up to an easy measure.

• Kosher salt, table salt, and black pepper

• Extra-virgin olive oil (1 cup)

• All-purpose flour (about 1⅔ cups)

• Sugar (about ⅔ cup)

• Herbes de Provence (1 teaspoon)

• Red pepper flakes (a pinch)

• Bay leaves (3)

• Dried thyme (2 teaspoons)

• Sherry vinegar (2 tablespoons)

• Champagne vinegar (3 tablespoons)

• Vanilla extract (1 teaspoon)

• Cooking spray (for the tart pan)

• Kitchen twine (for the herb bundle)

The printable shopping list PDF is right below.

Unsung Wines Of France Shopping List

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Host the night. Pour the world.

Why It’s on the Menu

A slow-roasted, almost jammy vegetable spread on crisp toast with tangy goat cheese: it's the first bite of the night, and it's bright enough to open the table without filling anyone up. The ratatouille is based on America’s Test Kitchen’s recipe. Serve it with the sparkling and white wines from all over France. The full plan is in the Wine Night post.

The Recipe: Ratatouille Toasts

Serves 8 as an appetizer (about 20 toasts) · 45 minutes hands-on, about 2½ hours total, plus an optional overnight rest

You’ll need:

Ratatouille

• 1 pound plum tomatoes

• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

• ½ red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

• ½ yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces

• 1 large onion, cut into 1-inch pieces

• 6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

• ¾ pound eggplant, cut into 1-inch pieces

• 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence

• Pinch of red pepper flakes

• 1 bay leaf

• 1 medium zucchini, quartered and cut into ½-inch pieces

• 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

• 2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped

• 1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced

• Kosher salt and black pepper

Toasts

• 1 baguette

• Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

• 1 (8-ounce) log goat cheese, at room temperature

• Fresh basil leaves, for topping

Do this:

The day before (if time permits)

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While the water heats, cut a small X in the skin on the bottom of each tomato. When the water is boiling, prepare an ice bath in a large bowl.

2. Place the tomatoes in the boiling water until the skin starts to pull away around the X, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or strainer, transfer the tomatoes to the ice bath.

3. When cool, pull off the tomato skins (they should be falling off at this point) and discard them. Core and roughly chop the tomatoes.

4. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, bell peppers, ½ teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion and peppers begin to soften, about 10 minutes.

5. Add the herbes de Provence, red pepper flakes, and bay leaf, and cook for 1 minute. Add the eggplant, tomatoes, and another ½ teaspoon of salt. Stir to combine, then transfer the pot to the oven and bake, uncovered, for 45 minutes.

6. Remove the pot from the oven and mash with a potato masher (or a spoon) until the eggplant pieces are broken down. Add the zucchini, cover, and return the pot to the oven for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the zucchini is fully cooked. Discard the bay leaf.

7. Let the ratatouille cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight so the flavors can meld together. (This step can be skipped if you are short on time.)

The day of

8. Bring the ratatouille to room temperature. Pulse it in a food processor until everything is finely chopped. It should spoon like a spread, not a puree.

9. Heat the oven to 400°F. Slice the baguette into ¾-inch rounds, brush both sides with olive oil, and spread them in a single layer on a large baking sheet.

10. Bake about 5 minutes per side, until golden. Let cool to room temperature.

11. Stir the basil, parsley, and sherry vinegar into the ratatouille, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

12. Spread each toast with a thin layer of goat cheese, about 1 rounded teaspoon.

13. Top with about 1 rounded tablespoon of ratatouille and a piece of basil leaf.

Printable recipe card below.

Ratatouille Toasts Recipe

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Notes

• Make ahead: Make the ratatouille up to a day ahead and the toasts up to 2 days ahead (store them airtight at room temperature). Assemble just before guests arrive so the toasts stay crisp.

• Goat cheese: Warming it slightly in the microwave makes it easier to spread.

• Yield: The toast count is kept light on purpose, so guests don’t fill up before the rest of the Wine Night menu. You’ll have plenty of ratatouille left over. If you’re serving these on their own or before a lighter dinner, pick up a second baguette and another log of goat cheese and make about 40 toasts. Otherwise, serve it over pasta the next day or set the extra aside before stirring in the herbs and vinegar, and freeze it.

• Variation: Skip the food processor and serve it chunky as a side dish or over polenta (serves 4).

Host the night. Pour the world.

Why It’s on the Menu

This is the main event. Chicken thighs braise slowly in red Burgundy with pancetta, pearl onions, and mushrooms until the sauce turns glossy and deep. It's the French classic everyone thinks they know, made richer with porcini, beef broth, and a cognac flambé. It’s an amalgamation of recipes from two all-time greats, Ina Garten and Julia Child. Serve it with the rosé and reds of the night. The full plan is in the Wine Night post.

The Recipe: Coq au Vin

Serves 8 · about 1½ hours hands-on, about 3 hours total

You’ll need:

The braise

• ½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms

• 1 cup hot water

• 6 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat and patted dry

• Kosher salt and black pepper

• 2 bottles red Burgundy (750 milliliters each)

• 4 cups beef broth

• 12 ounces pancetta, cut into ¼-inch pieces

• 13 to 14 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided

• 2 large carrots, roughly chopped

• 2 large onions, roughly chopped

• 4 medium shallots, peeled and quartered

• 8 cloves garlic, skin on and smashed

• ½ cup cognac

• 2 teaspoons dried thyme

• 1 bunch Italian parsley, stems only (save the leaves for serving)

• 2 bay leaves

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

The garnish and sauce

• 1 (14-ounce) bag frozen pearl onions, thawed and drained in a strainer

• 1 pound cremini mushrooms, halved if medium, quartered if large

• 3 to 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• ¼ cup parsley leaves (from the same bunch), minced

Do this:

1. Soak the porcini in the hot water for 30 minutes. Lift them out, squeeze extra liquid back into the dish, chop them, and set them aside. Strain the soaking liquid through a coffee filter or paper towel into a large, heavy saucepan to catch any grit.

2. Season the chicken generously with salt and pepper and set it aside. Add the wine and beef broth to the porcini liquid in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-high and simmer until the liquid has reduced to about 8 cups, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pancetta in a large Dutch oven (the bigger, the better) over medium heat until the fat has rendered and the pancetta is golden, 5 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer it to a paper towel-lined plate.

4. Add 2 tablespoons of butter to the pancetta fat. Add the carrots, onions, shallots, and garlic, and cook until lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to the reduced wine with as little of the fat as possible, then pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot.

5. Return the Dutch oven to medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of butter. When it melts, add the chicken in batches so the pot isn’t crowded, and cook until well browned all over, turning and rotating in the pan every 4 to 5 minutes until all pieces are nicely browned. Transfer the browned chicken to a plate and let it rest while you finish the rest of the pieces. When finished, pour off all fat from the pot.

6. Return all the chicken to the pot and take the pot off the heat. Pour in the cognac and carefully light it with a long match or lighter. When the flames die out, transfer the chicken back to the plate.

7. Return the pot to the heat, add the wine and vegetable mixture, and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Tie the parsley and bay leaves together and add to the pot. Add the thyme and tomato paste, stir until paste is dissolved. Add chicken and any accumulated juices from the plate. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer gently, partially covered, until the chicken is tender, about 60 minutes. Turn the chicken once halfway through, moving pieces from the top to bottom and vice versa if it is crowded.

8. While the chicken cooks, melt 6 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet over low heat. Add the pearl onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and almost cooked through, 8 to 12 minutes.

9. Increase the heat to medium. Add the cremini and the chopped porcini, season with salt, and cover. Cook until the mushrooms release their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to high, and cook until the liquid evaporates and the onions and mushrooms are golden brown, 5 minutes more. When finished, remove from heat.

10. When the chicken is done, carefully transfer it to a large serving platter so the pieces stay intact. Cover it with foil to keep warm. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring cup or bowl, pressing on the solids to get out as much liquid as possible. You should have 3 to 4 cups. Return the sauce to the pot and skim off as much fat as you can.

11. Measure out 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour for every cup of sauce (3 to 4 tablespoons of each), and mash them together into a smooth paste.

12. Bring the sauce to a boil and whisk in the butter-flour paste until smooth and thickened. Add the pancetta, onions, and mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low, nestle the chicken back into the sauce along with any juices from the platter, and simmer very gently until everything is heated through, about 5 minutes.

13. Using tongs, gently return the chicken to the platter. Spoon the sauce, mushrooms, and onions over the top, sprinkle with the chopped parsley, and serve immediately.

Printable recipe card below.

Coq Au Vin Recipe

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Notes

• Make ahead: Coq au vin is better the next day. Finish it through step 7, cool it, and refrigerate it overnight in the pot. The fat will harden on top and lift right off. Refrigerate the cooked pancetta and the chopped porcini separately, since you’ll need them in steps 9 and 12. Reheat the coq au vin gently, then do steps 8 through 13 the day of the dinner.

• The cooking wine: You don’t need an expensive bottle. A good, simple Bourgogne Rouge, around $25 to $35, gives the sauce its depth; save the special bottles for the glasses. To spend less, a French Pinot Noir from the Pays d’Oc, around $10 to $15, works in the pot.

• Flambé safety: Turn off the range hood fan before lighting the cognac, keep the lid nearby, and stand back. The flames go out on their own in under a minute.

• On the table: Serve it with the garlic mashed potatoes and a simple green salad from the Wine Night menu and crusty French bread to catch every bit of sauce.

• Leftovers: I pack the leftovers (if there are any) with the mashed potatoes in individual servings and freeze them for an easy winter lunch.

Host the night. Pour the world.

Why It’s on the Menu

Thin apple slices fanned in tight circles over a buttery apple filling, glazed and kissed under the broiler until the edges start to caramelize. It looks like it came from a pâtisserie window, but the press-in crust means no rolling pin. This is America’s Test Kitchen’s recipe with more butter. It closes the night on something fruity and not too sweet. Serve it with Sauternes. The full plan is in the Wine Night post.

The Recipe: French Apple Tart

Serves 8 · 1 hour hands-on, about 4 hours total, including 1½ hours cooling

Equipment: a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, two rimmed baking sheets, a wire rack that fits inside one of them, and a stand mixer or hand mixer for the whipped cream.

You’ll need:

Crust

• 189 grams (about 1⅓ cups) all-purpose flour

• 64 grams (about 5 tablespoons) sugar

• ½ teaspoon table salt

• 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Filling

• 10 Golden Delicious apples (about 8 ounces each, 5 pounds total), peeled and cored

• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

• ½ cup apricot preserves

• ¼ teaspoon table salt

Whipped cream

• 1 cup heavy cream, chilled

• ¼ cup sugar

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Do this:

Start about 4 hours (or more) before you plan to serve

1. Set one oven rack in the lowest position and a second rack 5 to 6 inches below the broiler. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Set a wire rack inside a rimmed baking sheet.

2. Spray a 9-inch removable-bottom tart pan with cooking spray. Set the tart pan on the wire rack.

3. Whisk the flour, sugar, and salt together in a bowl. Add the melted butter and stir until a dough forms.

4. Press about half the dough over the bottom of the tart pan, then press the rest up the fluted sides. Smooth it with your hands to an even thickness. Use any extra dough to fill thin spots on the bottom.

5. Bake on the lowest rack until the crust is deep golden brown and firm to the touch, 30 to 40 minutes, rotating halfway through. Start checking after 25 minutes, but don’t pull it early; the color is where the flavor is. Set aside to cool.

6. Cut 5 of the apples lengthwise into quarters, then cut each quarter lengthwise into 4 thin slices. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apple slices and 1 tablespoon of water, and toss to coat. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the slices turn slightly translucent and bend easily, 5 to 8 minutes. Spread them in a single layer on a second baking sheet to cool.

7. While the apples cook, microwave the preserves until runny, about 1½ minutes, heating in 30-second bursts and checking after each. Strain them through a fine-mesh strainer into a small bowl, saving the solids. Set aside 3 tablespoons of the strained preserves for glazing.

8. Melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in the same skillet over medium heat. Cut the remaining 5 apples into ½-inch chunks. Add these, the rest of the strained preserves, the reserved solids, and the salt. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the apples are very soft, about 10 minutes.

9. Mash the apples into a paste with a potato masher. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until it reduces and thickens slightly, about 3 to 5 minutes.

10. Spread the apple paste in the baked crust. Smooth the top, keeping it off the crust edge.

11. Starting at the outer edge, arrange the slices in overlapping concentric circles until you reach the center.

12. Bake the tart, still on the wire rack in the baking sheet, on the lowest rack for another 30 minutes. Remove the tart and heat the broiler on high.

13. Microwave the reserved 3 tablespoons of preserves until liquid, about 30 seconds. Brush the glaze evenly over the apples, avoiding the crust.

14. Broil the tart on the upper rack for 3 to 5 minutes, rotating the pan every minute and checking the color. You want the edges of the apples to caramelize but you don’t want the crust to burn. Pull it out if the crust starts to get too dark. Check frequently toward the end. Let the tart cool for at least 1½ hours.

15. Remove the outer ring of the tart pan. Slide a metal spatula between the tart and the pan bottom, and carefully slide the tart onto a serving platter.

16. For the whipped cream, whip the cream, sugar, and vanilla in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment on medium speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase the speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes.

17. Cut into wedges and serve with a spoonful of whipped cream.

Printable recipe card below.

French Apple Tart Recipe

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Notes

• Timing: Make this the day you serve it. The 1½-hour cool is a minimum, not a deadline, so bake it whenever it fits your day and let it rest on the counter where everyone can admire it!

• Weigh, don’t scoop: If you have a kitchen scale, weigh the flour and sugar using grams. A cup of flour can weigh noticeably more when scooped than when spooned, and baking is less forgiving than cooking. If you’re measuring by volume, spoon the flour into the cup and level it off with a knife.

• Keep the crust clean: Keep the paste and the glaze off the crust, or the outer ring of the pan won’t release cleanly.

• Peach instead of apricot: While apricot preserves are more traditional, I had an open jar of peach, so that’s what I used. Either works; peach gives a softer, rounder fruit note with the apples, and it picks up the candied peach in the Sauternes.

Host the night. Pour the world.

The Occasion

This is a perfect meal for a late summer Sunday dinner. When the cherry tomatoes in your garden are ripe, your basil plant has exploded, fresh corn is available on the side of the road, and the kids are getting ready to go back to school. When you can enjoy a glass of wine while you tend to the grill, and you might open a second before the meal is through. Ina Garten’s corn salad is a perfect accompaniment for the steak. The microwave corn trick in the salad is a recent social media sensation.

The Wines

Primary pour: Sassetti Livio Pertimali, Brunello di Montalcino, 2014

Its savory herb notes echo the garlic, Italian seasoning, and basil, and its earthy side works with the charred, beefy crust of a strip steak. Open or decant it when the steak goes into the marinade; a Brunello this age opens up with 30 to 60 minutes of air. About $70; the 2014 is getting hard to find, and a recent vintage works with a little extra air.

Rosso di Montalcino, around $20 to $30, is a lighter, less expensive option from the same grape and town. Chianti Classico Riserva or a Rioja Reserva, around $20 to $35, also work.

The Menu

Serves 4

Main: Caprese Steak

20 minutes hands-on, about 1 hour total (includes 30 minutes marinating)

You’ll need:

• 2 New York strip steaks (about 12 ounces each, 1 inch thick)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 cloves garlic, minced

• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1 pint cherry tomatoes (from your garden if possible)

• 1 cup fresh ciliegine mozzarella balls

• ¼ cup fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade

• Aged balsamic vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Do this:

1. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, garlic, Italian seasoning, salt, and pepper. Brush it generously over the steaks and let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes while you make the corn salad.

2. Place a large cast-iron skillet on the grates of a pellet grill and preheat to 450°F for at least 15 minutes. No pellet grill? A gas or charcoal grill on high, or a 450°F oven, works too.

3. Wipe any large pieces of garlic off the steaks so they don’t scorch. Add the steaks to the hot skillet and flip every 3 minutes until the thickest part reads 125°F for medium-rare, about 5 to 10 minutes. Use a thermometer, not a timer. Move the steaks to a cutting board and let them rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Add the tomatoes to the same skillet and cook, tossing occasionally, until they start to split, 3 to 5 minutes.

5. Slice the steak against the grain and arrange it on a serving platter. Spoon the tomatoes and mozzarella balls around the steak, drizzle with aged balsamic and olive oil, and scatter the basil over the top.

6. Serve immediately!

Printable recipe card below.

Caprese Steak Recipe

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Side: Basil Corn Salad

15 minutes hands-on, about 30 minutes total

You’ll need:

• 4 ears corn, unshucked

• ½ red onion, diced

• 3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• ½ teaspoon kosher salt

• ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• ½ cup fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade

Do this:

1. Soak the diced onion in a small bowl of ice water while you prepare the corn. Drain well and pat dry before adding it to the salad.

2. Microwave two ears of corn on high for 6 minutes, then put the other two in. While they cook, let the first two cool slightly. Cut about ½ inch off the stem end of each ear, hold it by the top, and squeeze; the cob should slide out clean. Rinse briefly under cold water, then slice the kernels into a medium bowl. Repeat with the second two ears.

3. Add the remaining ingredients and toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Printable recipe card below.

Basil Corn Salad Recipe

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The Pairing

Classic summer flavors: grilled steak, caprese, and sweet corn. Brunello is full-bodied, with firm tannins and bright acidity. The acidity matches the tomatoes and balsamic, the tannins cut through the richness of the steak, and the wine’s savory, herbal side picks up the basil running through both dishes.

The Timeline

About an hour before you want to eat, make the marinade, brush it on the steaks, and open or decant the wine. While the steaks sit, preheat the grill and make the corn salad, then put the salad on the table. Pour the first glass and head to the grill. The steaks take about 10 minutes, and the tomatoes cook while the steaks rest. Slice, plate, and sit down as soon as the steak is ready.

The One Thing to Know

To tie a multi-dish meal together, pick one flavor and carry it through every dish. Here, it’s basil.

Stay for one more glass.

The Recipe: Chicken Provençal

Serves 2 · 15 minutes hands-on, about 75 minutes total

Why this pairing: Garrigue. That’s the wild, herb-covered scrubland of southern France, and it’s all over these vineyards. Thyme, rosemary, savory, marjoram, and oregano grow there in abundance, the same aromatics that go into this dish. When a wine and food share aromatic compounds, they complement each other. What grows together goes together. This started as a New York Times recipe; I added the olives and potatoes to make it a one-pan meal.

You’ll need:

• 2 whole chicken legs (or 4 thighs)

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• ½ cup all-purpose flour

• 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided

• 2 tablespoons herbes de Provence, divided

• 1 lemon, quartered

• 8 cloves garlic, peeled

• ½ cup Niçoise olives (or Kalamata), pitted

• 4 shallots, peeled and quartered

• 2 Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

• ½ cup dry vermouth

• Fresh thyme sprigs, for serving

Do this:

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Swirl 2 tablespoons of the oil in a 9×13 baking dish or a 12-inch oven-safe skillet.

2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Dredge it in flour and shake off the excess. Place the chicken skin side up in the dish and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the herbes de Provence.

3. Arrange the garlic, lemon, shallots, and olives around the chicken. Toss the potatoes with the remaining oil and 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence, then spread them around the dish, leaving the chicken uncovered. Pour the vermouth into the dish around the chicken, not over it, so the skin stays crisp.

4. Roast for 45 to 60 minutes. Halfway through, stir the vegetables and baste the chicken with the pan juices.

5. The chicken is done when the thickest part of the thigh reads about 175°F, the juices run clear, and the skin is crispy. Squeeze the roasted lemon over everything and garnish with fresh thyme.

6. Plate it, pour the wine!

Printable recipe card below.

Chicken Provençal Recipe

53KB ∙ PDF file

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The Pour

Clos Saint Joseph, Côtes de Provence Rosé, 2022 (or the current vintage)

It’s dry and medium-bodied, with notes of rhubarb, melon, and fresh herbs. The texture is almost velvety. It’s a great food wine for Mediterranean dishes, grilled foods, and herb-driven cooking. Serve it chilled but not ice-cold so that texture comes through. About $40. Any dry Côtes de Provence rosé, around $15 to $20, will work in its place.

The One Thing to Know

Provence rosé is a dinner wine that happens to be great by the pool. Its acidity and herbal edge stand up to roast chicken, grilled lamb, and even wild game.

Tuesday, but nicer.